The Algarve to Northern Spain... By Train... With a Dog?
Maybe that title alone is enough to make you think I’m crazy, but it turns out it is possible—and I managed to do it successfully.
Step 1: Algarve to Huelva
I began my journey by begging a lift from the Algarve to Huelva. I had actually planned to take the train from Portimão, probably all the way to Vila Real de Santo António. That is about a 3-hour trip, and you have to change trains in Faro.
What do I need to travel with a dog in regional trains in Portugal?
If you are travelling with a dog, the dog needs to either have its own ticket and wear a muzzle or, if it’s small enough to go in a little carry bag, then you don’t need a ticket for it. I probably would have gone for the option of getting her a ticket, just because I know she’s happier if she’s not totally enclosed.
So, we made it to Huelva, where we stayed overnight because I wanted to break the journey up. I can recommend the Senator Hotel in the centre of Huelva—it was about a 20-minute walk to the train station, and there was an amazing dog park nearby. It was absolutely brilliant. We had it to ourselves at 11 p.m., and Chanel had a blast running around and burning off some travel energy, which was perfect.
Step 2: Huelva to Madrid
From Huelva, I took the 8:30 a.m. train to Madrid. I had been practising with Chanel because I wasn’t entirely sure how the carry case situation was going to go. It’s about a 4-hour train trip, which is quite a long time for a dog to be shut up in a little case. She’s also probably just on the big side for it, but those are the dimensions that would work if I were ever going to fly with her, so part of me was prepping for that eventuality.
Questions about travelling on Renfe with a dog?
I had a lot of questions before taking the train and wasn’t sure how it would be. Maybe I can clear some of those up in case someone else ever tries it.
For context, Chanel weighs about 8.5kg, 9.5 in her carrier, and is pretty chill.
You can let your dog put their head out, and you can walk them through security and down the platform.
I kept Chanel out of the case for as long as possible, boarded the train at the last minute, popped her in the case, and then got on board. She was amazing—I was really impressed. I tried to tire her out beforehand, and I think the travel itself is a bit stressful, so that helped as well. She slept most of the way, and I had chews and treats to keep her busy if needed.
I used a bag that zips open to give extra space that can be carried like a holdall.
I also booked the “individual” seats in the “Confort” carriage. I guess this waan’t necessary, but it gave me some peace of mind that there'd be enough leg room for her box. And that we wouldn't be seated next to someone who disn’t like dogs!
Some people recommend calming treats, but she’s a pretty relaxed dog and didn’t need them. I didn’t give her much water during the journey, and she was definitely thirsty when we got off, but I figured it was better than her needing to pee urgently on the train?! In summer, though, I obviously wouldn’t recommend skipping water - this was in cold December! If anyone has a recommendation for a spill-proof bowl that works in a carry case, let me know.
See this link for more info on Renfe: https://www.renfe.com/es/en/travel/informacion-util/pets
What to do with your dog in Madrid
We stayed one night in Madrid, and the first thing we did was head to Retiro Park for a beautiful autumnal walk. Chanel had another good run around the dog park there, which was lovely. We made the most of our 24 hours in Madrid. The next day, we took a pet-friendly Uber to Chamartín train station.
A word of warning—there aren’t many pet-friendly Ubers in Madrid, and both times I used them, the wait was long. One driver took 25 minutes to arrive, even though the app initially said 10 minutes. Definitely factor that into your schedule! Fortunately, I’d allowed plenty of time, and the driver turned out to be great.
Step 3: Madrid to Santander
The next leg of the journey included a transfer in Palencia due to works on the line. That wasn’t a bad thing—it gave Chanel a chance for a justified 10-minute walk up and down the platform. She was a bit more antsy on this leg, though. At one point, I noticed her turning around a lot, wanting to stick her head out of the case, and she definitely would have jumped out if I’d let her. So again, try to tire your dog out as much as possible beforehand.
Finally, we made it to Santander without any hassle. The train was on time, and people were kind on board. Chanel didn’t make a sound, and most people smiled at her. Spain is pretty dog-friendly.
Where to stay in Santander with a dog
Once we arrived, we had a lovely walk through the city to our hotel, the NH Ciudad de Santander. It was super dog-friendly. There was an extra fee for having a dog, which is annoying, but at least they provided a bed, bowls, and even a free tennis ball, which was a cute touch.
And that’s my experience travelling through Spain with my dog. I’d 100% do it again. In fact, I’m already considering doing this next summer when I leave the Algarve for the UK. The Algarve gets too hot for me in summer as a pasty northern European!
Happy (non-yappy) travels!
